Are all prime lenses created equal?

The simple answer is no. One could argue that all 50mm lenses should do the same job, but from the perspective of image quality, nothing could be further from the truth. There are many reasons for this: the complexity of the optical formula, and its ability to keep optical deficiencies to a minimum, the quality of the glass, whether or not the housing is metal or plastic, whether or not the lens is automatic or manual… lots of things.

What I want to do in this post is provide some examples of how prime lenses differ (in the context of the Fuji-X system, although the same logic can be applied to any lens on any system). Let’s consider a series of lenses for the Fuji-X system with a focal length of 35mm, being the “normal” lens for APS-C size cameras, with a varied range of maximum-aperture values. The core characteristics are shown in Table 1, with the visual aspects such as lens design shown in Figure 1. Note that I have not included the sub-$100 category of cheap lenses, just because I don’t necessarily think they can be compared in the same manner (from the perspective of build-quality).

35mm (APS-C)Voigtländer Nokton f/0.9TTArtisan f/0.95Voigtländer Nokton f/1.2Fujifilm f/1.4 RFujifilm f/2.0 R WRMeyer Trioplan 35 f/2.8 II
aperturef/0.9f/0.95f/1.2f/1.5f/2.0f/2.8
aperture blades1210127912
weight492g250g196g187g170g270-300g
focusingmanualmanualmanualautomaticautomaticmanual
elements10/97/58/68/69/65
housingaluminummetalaluminumaluminumaluminumaluminum
country of originJapanChinaJapanJapanJapanGermany
priceC$2000C$300C$840C$800C$540€899
Table 1: Comparison of a series of Fuji-X compatible APS-C 35mm lenses

There are many things about these lenses that are very similar. The bodies are made of metal, they all weight roughly the same (except the Nokton f/0.9), the number of aperture blades is similar, and all bar the Fujifilm lenses use manual focus. Where they differentiate from a technical viewpoint is maximum aperture. From the perspective of design, most are based on some variant of the ubiquitous double-Gauss lens design. As shown in Figure 1, each lens is tailored to the specific “needs” of the manufacturer, augmented with specialized lens elements such as aspherical lenses.

The number one factor which differentiates lenses is usually price. Here native lenses are often more expensive than third-party ones, but not always. The most expensive lens comes from Voigtländer, the Nokton f/0.9, which is not surprising considering it has the largest maximum aperture, and is the most complex design, but also because Voigtländer is known for high precision optics. Voigtländer lenses are made by Cosina who make everything from scratch in its factories in Japan. For a slower lens there is the Nokton f/1.2 which is less than half the cost, but this is largely because of the lack of aspherical elements, and a simpler design.

Fig.1: Six types of 35mm lenses for Fuji-X

At the opposite end of the spectrum, is the TTArtisan f/0.95 lens which sells for C$300. Why the disparity? Likely less expensive manufacturing, or the lack of aspherical lenses. Many of these less expensive lenses seem to be based on older lens designs which have been improved in some manner. But the goal of Chinese lens manufacturers is to provide good quality optics at a reasonable price. Some of these cheaper lenses may also have some optical deficiencies, but this can be regarded as providing a “vintage” look in the way of creating images with character. For example sharpness at full aperture may not always be what one would expect. The TTArtisan 35mm f/0.95 has excellent bokeh, but does suffer from both vignetting on images with light corners, and lens flare at lower apertures.

Are these 35mm lenses created equal? Probably not, except perhaps in the context of providing the same angle-of-view. Their differences are varied, and can’t really be described in any meaningful way. We could compare them using 101 different tests, from measuring sharpness to the presence of optical artifacts such as chromatic aberration, but this is often a very qualitative endeavour. So which lens of this group is the best choice? Ultimately it comes down to budget, and personal preferences.

Note that this principle extrapolates out to most standard focal lengths.

Choosing the right digital lens can be challenging

Choosing a digital camera, and a sensor size is one thing, but I think the thing that really stumps people is choosing the most appropriate lenses to use. Of course for the amateur photographer, what the lens will be used for may be the most important consideration. Travel? Landscapes? Street photography? The task is always made easier if there are some constraints on the number of lenses available. For example the range of lenses available for Micro-Four-Thirds, or even Fuji-X cameras has always been a little bit constrained, well until recently with the expansion of 3rd-party lenses.

So how do you choose the right lens? Like vintage lenses, digital lenses are principally chosen based on focal length (which advocates their use), and speed, i.e. aperture size. In addition there is cost, and “extras” such as weather sealing, and stabilization. The problem comes with the variety of lenses available – consider the long list of Fuji-X lenses, many of which are 3rd-party. Which one should you choose? Do you choose a prime or a zoom, a Fujifilm, or a third-party? Do you need an 8mm APS-C lens? Would 13mm be better? What about 16mm? Is manual focus okay, or would you prefer auto-focus? It’s not easy, even with the myriad of videos reviewing lenses.

I’ll concentrate on Fuji-X here, because it’s at the heart of my current lens dilemma (my camera is a Fujifilm X-H1). Now my photography is a mixed bag of street, landscape, architecture and travel. I currently have the 23mm f/2 R WR (which is a FF 35mm equiv.). Now I’m looking to expand, primarily a wide-angle lens. Here are some of the typical focal lengths for Fuji-X (APS-C sensor), and their applications. Measurements in ( ) represent the full-frame equivalences.

  • 50-56mm (75-85mm) – Good for portraiture.
  • 33-35mm (50-53mm) – Good for general photography, portraiture and cityscapes.
  • 23mm (35mm) – The upper end of the wide spectrum, provides more scene than the 33mm, but without the distortion of wider focal lengths. Good for street photography.
  • 18mm (28mm) – The standard choice for landscapes (and sometimes architecture), providing a relatively wide angle of view, without introducing obvious distortions.
  • 14-16mm (21-24mm) – The common lower end of the wide spectrum, good for very broad landscapes. Can include some noticeable perspective distortion, especially if the camera is tilted.

Beyond that we begin to move into the ultra-wide focal lenses, of which there seem to be quite a number. 11-13mm (16-20mm) lenses encompass more of the scene than can be seen with normal vision, so there is an innate sense of exaggerated perspective. Subjects close to the camera appear quite large, with the relative size of more distant subjects reducing quickly with distance. These lenses can be ideal for photography where the distortion does not impact the aesthetics of the image.

Various Fuji (APS-C) lenses and their associated angles of view. (Photo taken from Belvédère Kondiaronk lookout on Mont Royal, Montreal)

In reality, going down this rabbit hole has led me towards the 16mm, and possibly something like a 33-35mm. I have enough vintage lenses to cover the 50mm+ spectrum, and this makes sense as I don’t envision using them that often. And I’m going to stick with prime lenses. Some people really like zoom lenses because of the flexibility they allow, but I find I always seem to stick to one focal length – the 12-40mm on my Olympus camera used when travelling is perpetually set at 12mm (24mm). There are other compromises as well – weight can be an issue, as well as slower apertures.

Choosing a digital lens is challenging, especially for the hobbyist photographer. There are a lot of options, regardless of the sensor. Even Micro Four Thirds also has a long list of lenses. If someone is unsure, then I suggest starting with lenses from the camera manufacturer. As to focal length, choose a lens that provides the most optimal angle-of-view for the application you are most interested in. For example, if you shoot with an APS-C camera, and your focus is street photography, then a 23mm (35mm) lens is the most optimal solution.